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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. But, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.